Magnolia Trees

Q. I planted a magnolia tree last June. It survived the winter and is out in leaf but it didn't have any blossoms on it. Can you please tell me if I should have done some special feeding or care to it. We live in Ontario Canada. I really like the magnolia and was so disappointed that it didn't bloom. Thanks for any suggestions you may give me.

A. Many times it takes a flowering tree or shrub a year or two to acclimate to a new environment. Therefore it does not surprise me that you experienced no flowers this spring.

I recommend a good feeding program. I do not know if the tree received any food last summer and fall or even this spring but hop to it now and give it an ornamental outdoor gardening fertilizer. Look for Ortho Scotts Miracle-Gro Rapid-Grow and Peters as products which produce well. Follow the label directions carefully and keep feeding up until the days turn cool in the fall.

The flower buds will be forming later this summer so you need to furnish evenly food and water for the tree no stress or pest attacks and an organic mulch around its base. Please come back and let me know how it is doing.

Q. I have a very large Magnolia tree in my backyard. The North side of the tree has become soft. Obviously there is a reason for this. Am I going to have to cut my beautiful tree down or is there a way to stop this? It blooms about 2-3 times a year and I would really hate not to have this tree in my yard. It accompanies the many Redbud trees and Rose of Sharons.

A. I have no information for you on this problem. Being the northern side of the tree that is where moisture collects and the wood and bark stay wet. Remember where moss grows on trees...which side the North!

I suggest that you call a local tree specialist and allow the person to advise you. There may be a way to treat it without removal of the lovely tree. Best of luck but do not put it off as the longer the wood stays wet the greater the chance of loss of the tree!

Q. I am in NW Florida. We planted a magnolia tree in October. It is growing very well about 7 ft tall now but it's going straight up. Can I trim the top to make it branch out instead of going straight up? Where do I trim it? When is the time to trim it?

A. Most trimming is performed from June 1 through July 31st; during or following the annual flush of growth. Spring-flowering shrubs are pruned within one month after they bloom to preserve flowers for the next year. When it comes to flowering trees timing is everything. Flowering trees will not bloom if they are trimmed after their flower buds are set. The safest rule of thumb is to only trim flowering trees during the 30-day period right after they bloom.

The biggest pruning mistake are branches cut in the wrong place. Most gardeners tend to leave too much of a stub when they remove a branch. The problem is once this stub dies off it creates a perfect entry point for insects and disease pathogens. Trees don't regenerate tissue the same way human beings do. While our skin acts to replace itself trees grow new tissue around their wounds in a process known as "compartmentalization". If a tree can compartmentalize an old pruning wound it has a much better chance of survival.

Also efforts should be made not to create wounds on tree trunks with lawn mowers and other machinery.  Destructive fungi are opportunists! Trees have a natural defense system built into the swollen area known as the collar where the branch meets the trunk. It is important to make a cut close to the trunk without removing the collar. The proper cut is made just beyond the collar not leaving a stub but leaving the swollen area intact.

Of course the first step in removing a branch is getting the weight off: Go out 1-2' from the trunk and first make an undercut 1/3 of the way up from the bottom of the branch. If you go too far your saw will get pinched. Then make your second cut all the way through the branch from the top side of the branch just an inch or two outward from your first cut. The branch should then fall away without tearing bark back to the trunk.

Never attempt tree work that should be done by a professional. Trees can wound or kill in the blink of an eye!

A few safety tips are:

Never cut or trim trees from a ladder. This is asking for trouble! Tie-in to a tree at least two places: with an approved safety line through a strong crotch higher up in the tree and with the strap on your professional tree saddle.

Follow recommendations for properly notching a tree trunk when you are cutting down a tree. Kickback of the tree is very dangerous. Take an approved course in chain saw practices and safety and apply what you learn. Chain saws cut like a knife through butter when they contact skin! Loggers wear special pants lined with Kevlar and other materials to protect their legs from chain saws.

Wear a hardhat and eye protection (also wear ear protection with chain saws). Consider other safety equipment and advice as well.