Fruit Trees

Q. I have a weeping cherry tree and a purple leaf plum tree that refuse to produce more than a few blooms each. Both have been in the ground for 3 years and are otherwise healthy and growing. My soil test indicated a good level of phosphorous and because this has been an ongoing problem I have even supplemented with superphosphate on several occasions. Do you have any suggestions on what might be going on?

You mention testing the soil for Phosphorus which is good. But have you measured the pH of the soil? They prefer to grow on the a slightly acidic side a bit lower than 7.0 neutral. That is why they thrive near azaleas camellias and rhododendrons. Purchase a test kit at a local nursery or garden center. If your soil is rather basic then flowering will be sparse.

The age is a determining factor as well. Three years is not a long time for the trees to establish themselves. Be patient and give them a couple more years. My research leads me to believe that 4-6 years is an average time span for full ornamental flowering. You will soon be rewarded.

They prefer moist fast-draining well-aerated soil and require full sun. Keep roots moist; these trees are not tolerant of prolonged drought but do tolerate heat and high humidity.

Pruning is seldom necessary except to remove dead or diseased wood or crossing branches that appear awkward or rub against each other. To avoid reducing the following year's flower display prune crossing or rubbing branches immediately after flowering. Never prune in early spring before flowering. Prune dead or diseased wood any time of year.

It is important to maintain healthy trees free from insects and diseases. Most diseases and insects can be controlled through periodic applications of an "All-purpose Fruit Spray". These sprays are mixtures of fungicides and insecticides and are effective against most fruit tree pests.

Also be sure to keep down any weeds around these trees as they cannot only deplete the area of nutrients and water but harbor insects and diseases.

Q. I would like to know when and how to take a start from my neighbors black elderberry tree?

A. Here is a general background:

A deciduous shrub from 20" to 20' in height.
Leaves large opposite compound with five to nine leaflets.
Stems: Young twigs soft and pithy but the wood is quite hard. The stems may have a rank odor if bruised.
Flowers creamy white in pyramidal heads.
Fruits round berry-like drupes with two to four seeds; usually bright red although that of var. melanocarpa are black.

Across North America from Newfoundland to Alaska. Restricted to moist cool sites in the South extending into California in the coastal mountains Arizona and New Mexico in the Rockies and Georgia and Tennessee in the Appalachian highlands.  Not well adapted to warm climates and in the southern part of its range is found in cooler uplands swamps and along cool drainage.

Prefers rich rocky soils with ample moisture; will tolerate saturated soils with a pH of 5.0 to 8.0.

Shade tolerant or partially shade tolerant. Where it grows under a canopy it develops poorly is lower height and fruits sparingly if at all.

Fire:
Can resprout from rhizomes or root crowns following fire. Fire generally kills above ground parts which resprout. Sprouting can occur from dormant buds on the stems following a very light fire. If stem buds are killed in a higher severity fire.