Soil Preparation

Q. I was wondering if it would suffice for me to top dress a bed with soil conditioner or compost. Or would it work if I took a shovel and pushed it into the ground and opened a slit and then put some soil conditioner or compost into the slit? It wouldn't be the same as working it into the entire soil bed but at least there would be a little organic material in there.

A. I was just reading about this type of renovation to a garden bed. The writer was explaining that it is good to replenish organic matter every two years and one did not have to tear up the entire plot but could incorporate it with digging down a foot or two without disturbing the root systems of the existing plants. Fertilizer can be applied throughout the summer and this is called side dressing. Top dressing is merely laying organic matter on the surface. It will be beneficial but will take much more time for the nutrients to reach down via leaching into the roots.

If there are no plants in this bed you may dig all through it and add organic material such as compost dried leaves peat moss or leaf mold. If plants are growing there now then carefully dig away from the plants and add. Assume that the root systems will extend at least as far as the reach of the plant branches.

Here are some items to purchase and spade in. Read on with descriptions and several websites with lots of info for you too much to print here!

Perlite
Vermiculite
Dolomite Lime
Magnesium Sulfate
Seaweed Meal
Soil Moist

This is one thing I just harp upon:

Soil drainage is critical to survival and growth of most landscape plants especially evergreen trees and shrubs. When the rate of water movement through soil is restricted by fine-textured clay soils subsoil hard pan or other material difficult to penetrate a saturated zone may develop in the root zone of plants. Spaces in the soil normally containing air are filled with water resulting in saturated soil. Wet soils cause more problems to landscape crops than any other single cause. When drainage is poor roots are injured from the lack of oxygen fertilizer uptake is limited and plant growth is reduced. Soil moisture problems can be solved by installing surface and/or internal drainage.

Building Fertile Soil

Healthy soil = healthy plants: when you build and maintain fertile soil rich in organic matter you literally lay the groundwork for thriving plants that can develop quickly resist pests and diseases and yield a bountiful crop.

The ideal soil would have sand silt clay and organic matter in about equal amounts. It would also be uniformly mixed to at least twelve inches deep. The subsoil would allow the excess water to drain away. No soil is ideal but soil can be improved with soil amendments and drainage.

Amendments that are commonly added to soil are:
Sand or Profile Soil Conditioner: to improve aeration and drainage.
Compost: to add organic matter nutrients and to improve aeration and drainage.
Lime or Sulfur: to raise or lower pH.
Fertilizers: to add specific nutrients.
Sharp sand or Mason's sand creates spaces much better than river sand.